Walking the Streets in the Most Dangerous Place on Earth

Here in Gdansk Poland, we’re two hours from Russia

I’m writing this from Gdańsk Poland, one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever seen. It’s as intriguing as Venice, as vibrant as Brooklyn or Madrid, and as beautiful as Brussels, Buenos Aries, Merida, or Paris. Its nights are amazing with crowds strolling spacious squares, and bars and restaurants filled to capacity with pretty couples by the thousands walking together, holding hands, snuggling on benches, and stealing kisses along the fairytale-like streets. The days are filled with school children in their matching vests walking two abreast down the cobblestones and ordinary people scampering to and fro from cafes to workplaces to home.

But the air hangs heavy with the fact that Gdańsk is two hours away from Russian territory. Right now, an estimated 20 to 30 thousand Ukrainian refugees are in Gdańsk out of the 2,000,000 who have fled their homeland and into Poland. There are signs of their presence everywhere.

Poland shares a 300-mile border with Ukraine. The Russian exclave of Kaliningrad is a scant 2-hour drive away. And, just a little further is Druskininkai and the Suwałki Gap, a place POLITICO has labeled the most dangerous location on earth.

The Russians could be here before dinner if Putin decides to expand his tragic war to the rest of Europe. Worse yet, his missiles could be here in minutes.

A marker at the Suwałki Gap at Druskininkai, the most dangerous place on earth. (Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons)

The people of Gdańsk are no strangers to invasion. On a small peninsula called Westerplatte, 30 minutes away, courageous and outnumbered Polish defenders fought valiantly against Nazi invaders in 1939 during the first battle of World War II. Their Nazi occupiers ruled the city with an iron fist until Russians “liberated” them in 1945 after their senseless bombing and artillery bombardment that went on for days and destroyed much of the city center. It was followed by a brutal Soviet occupation of endless rape and murder that made the Nazis look like a bunch of boy scouts.

Central Gańsk following the Russian destruction of the city in 1945 (Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons)

The Russian “liberators” have not been forgotten.

Based on history Gdańsk is the flashpoint of the traditional invasion route into Europe. It’s where wartime experts believe Putin in his madness would send his troops in his imperialistic drive to rebuild the old Soviet Union.

First stop Druskininkai. Next stop, Gdansk.

But Poles are not to be easily trifled with. They’ve been surviving invasions for much of their 1,000-year history. They’re tough and resilient and courageous as well as welcoming, kind, and supportive of their Ukrainian neighbors.

While casually meandering through the sprawling brick Gdańsk Market Hall, the store merchant gave me a colorful, folding tourist map highlighting historical sites and some stand-out restaurants throughout the city. Scanning it for the next day’s itinerary, I noticed a small blue and yellow badge labeled:

“We are with UKRAINE. 100% of the advertising income from this map is intended to help those who today fight in UKRAINE for the FREEDOM of ALL of Europe”.

All through the city, you can hear Ukrainian spoken in the bars and cafes and by the families walking the cobblestoned line streets. On the weekend, the main square is dotted with Ukrainian and Polish flags as people wrapped in their banners circulate through the crowds with plastic buckets to raise money for Ukrainian relief.

Even the famed restaurant Kuchina Rosyjska has changed its name to Kuchina Aleksandry in defiance.

Since our founding, we in America have been spared the destruction of maniacs who start European wars. The people of Gdańsk have not been so lucky. But one thing is sure, Putin should be careful about expanding his imperialistic fantasy. Just as the Ukrainians have battled the Soviet invaders to a standstill, he’ll find he has bitten off more than he can chew if he chooses to take the road from Druskininkai to Dańsk.